Thread Case Part I: Adapting the Pattern

The patterns come on two large fold out sheets in an envelope at the back of the book, Japanese Quilting Piece by Piece: 29 Stitched Projects from Yoko Saito, and you can't cut them because they're printed on both sides. I could have traced them but I used my VuPoint Portable Wand Scanner instead.

The Thread Case pattern will fit on a sheet of printer paper so it can also be copied on a copier.

digression...
Seriously.
Every creative person should have this scanner. I resisted for a long time but the thought of being able to scan fabrics, textures and various images in the wild would not leave my brain alone until I got one.

I use this baby every. single. day.

It scans as JPG or PDF in 3 different resolutions, the highest being 1050dpi (you can also get a DOCK for this model that turns it into one of those pricey document scanners... of course... I had to get one of those too, it scans at 1200dpi when docked).

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.../digression

The Thread Case (henceforth known as "box") has inner and outer layers as well as dividers, I won't be making the dividers.

Finished measurements: Approx. 5 1/2"l x 3"w x 1.5"h - 14mm L x 7.6mm W x 5.8mm H

Let's assume we're viewing the box horizontally, as it appears in the pic above, and that the parts for the outside of the box are labeled: long top flap, long bottom flap, short flaps and bottom.

The spartan instructions indicate that you should make the outer box in 5 pieces... That seemed a bit much for me and I decided to make it in 2 pieces, an outer box and a lining. I printed out 2 copies of the pattern (it only shows 3 pieces, a short side, long side and bottom) and taped the whole shebang together leaving about 1/8" (3mm) between the pieces to allow for folding, and adding 1/4" (6mm) seam allowance around the outside. Seam allowances have to be added to all patterns and shapes in the book.

For needle turn applique you have to transfer the shapes to the right side of the fabrics you're using. I picked up a Dritz Tailor's Marking Mechanical Pencil a while ago that uses a fine, ceramic chalk lead that's perfect for tiny work like this.

Look at the pic at the top of this page: The spool design is comprised of the top and bottoms of the spools or caps, the thread, and the rods the spools sit on. If I were to cut out the entire design on one of the flaps, there would be nothing to hold the pattern together, so....

I cut out the spool cap shapes on the long top flap and the spool and rod shapes on the long bottom flap. The spools on the short flaps are the same and the spools on the long sides, though different, repeat on the opposite long flap in reverse order.

Basically, I cut out the caps on one side and cut out the rest of the shapes on the opposing side so, when used together, I get all the shapes I need. Does that make sense?
Repeat for the short sides.

I have this annoying habit of wanting to preserve every pattern I sew in case I ever want to make another... I never want to make another... but I do the extra preservation work anyway.

If you do it my, slightly anal retentive and geeky way, you have the pattern for the outer box, inner box and all applique shapes in one reusable pattern.

That's all for now.

Next time I'll talk about fabrics, of which I know plenty, and needle turn applique of which I know zippo, zilch, nada... BUT... I found a great video that explains all...

Onward...